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| MARKING OUT AND CUTTING A HALF LAP JOINT |
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| Position the two pieces as shown below in Dia. A, making sure that they line up accurately. Create a small mark with a marking knife, which marks the thickness of the top piece of wood (Dia. A). Place a try square against the edge of the wood and ‘draw’ a line across, using the marking knife, as shown in Dia B. Continuing to use the try square and marking knife, draw the line half way down each of the sides - Dia C. Repeat the same procedure on the second piece of wood. |
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| Set a marking gauge to half the thickness of the wood. Then use it to draw around the top edge (Dia D). Shade the two waste wood areas with a pencil. This wood will be removed later (Dia. E). At this stage it may be wise to use a sharp pencil to highlight the lines created by the marking knife and marking gauge, making them easier to see. |
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Secure the wood in a vice or securely hold it against the edge of a bench hook. Carefully saw across and downwards, using a tenon saw. Take care to keep just on the ‘waste wood’ side of the line. It is wise to stop occasionally, checking the accuracy of sawing (dia. G) |
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| Place the wood in the vice, as shown in Dia. H. Saw down, again on the ‘waste wood’ side of the line, until the waste wood can be removed. The sawn surfaces will be rough. |
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| A bevel edged chisel is then used to clean up the rough sawn edges of the joint. A g-cramp is used to secure the wood to the bench top, when chiselling the shorter distance (Dia. I). The wood is sometimes secured in a vice, when chiselling the longer distance of the joint (Dia. J) or chiselled from the side. When chiselling, the marking knife line is useful. The chisel edge is placed in the ‘marking knife’ line, before tapping the chisel with a mallet. Dia. K shows the completed joint, after gluing. |
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